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  #11  
Old 13-11-2018, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcat View Post
Tommo mentioned milliput. Which I agree is superb product .
I use standard and it will hold wires in place . It should .
I been using milliput for sculpting for years . Filling gaps to.
So give that a try . Super glue good but it drys and cracks .
Might be ok in plate . One can only try
I still gotta do a job on one my girls hands .
I just been waiting I guess .
On a thread I made someone said use telephone wire and plus it got plastic casing on so should be ok against tpe .
I have a garden wire to which is flexible . Tryed snapping it etc
And it didn't break .
I've had a look at milliput as I've never heard of it. Think I might invest in some anyway as it looks very useful - could see it making good some dodgy bodywork on my van for starters!

I'll see if I can get a photo of the different wires I've tried for comparison, telephone wire could be an option, most of the wires I've used have had PVC casing, which was "patch tested" on scrap TPE before use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt gloss
Hi,would this work? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conduit/0113200/
I am sure I saw some 3mm diameter somewhere..
Matt
Now, I really like this idea! Indeed they do 3mm, so I'll hunt down some smaller lengths to try - I don't really need a 20 metre reel unless I recoup costs by mending other people's dolls - probably enough there for about 10 dolls?

Quote:
Originally Posted by waspie
Firstly, great to see people who are good at this sort of repairs, but i am not one of them. This basically is poor manufacturing and is shameful, so NO ONE should be buying a tpe doll until they fix these pitiful shite excuses for hands/fingers and having the balls to charge us over 1000 for flimsy and fragile messes. I don't know how better/indifferent the silicone dolls are. I have had 3 tpe dolls, and they are all badly designed and made fingers, from different manufacturers, not just one.Skeletons are fine, but they do also WILL come loose if you pose them.
I spoke to one doll enthusiast, and there is no sure fire good method of repairs (and let's face it, it should be the manufacturer's trying to improve their fuck ups, not us). Anyway, a VERY good solution is unfortunately too expensive for most, and that is by using rolled carbon fibre, but one hand is likely to cost half the price of a doll unless you cna by pre-fabricated carbon fibre (good luck with that) !
Well I wouldn't say I'm necessarily good at repairs, but I'm a notorious dabbler and bodger, and after some thoughts I can come up with some fairly "way out" solutions for many problems... however as you say it is frustrating that we need to do this to an expensive doll. You wouldn't but a reasonably priced car, only to have to gaffer tape the indicator stalks on after a week! There is a glimmer of hope that a manufacture has designed some decent articulated fingers for their silicone dolls. Perhaps this design will trickle down to the TPE market one day?

I did consider asking someone I know with a 3D printer to sort me some proper finger bones, but he doesn't know about dolls, and I'm not sure about being open with him!
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  #12  
Old 13-11-2018, 07:16 AM
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Hi Munnin,please let us know how the "goosenek fingers work out" for you please.
I am still working on the skeleton for my fabric doll and it is my intention to use this material for the fingers/toes.
Enjoy
Matt
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  #13  
Old 14-11-2018, 03:14 AM
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This gooseneck wire/pipe is proving quite difficult to find in small quantities, and I don't fancy dealing with the murky world of AliExpress just yet! Still hunting it down though as I like the idea.

A further option, when I mentioned the idea to a friend - perhaps try what is known as "armature wire" - it's aluminum wire used by sculptors that is used to make the frame for models of varying sizes, particularly models for stop motions cartoons (think Wallace and Gromit etc.). It's supposed to be very flexible, and designed to pose and hold (some) weight. Would consider using some kind of jointing before the palm plate as that'd still be a point of failure.

This is the stuff - eBay Link to Armature Wire
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  #14  
Old 15-11-2018, 11:49 AM
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Hi I was just about to email the manufacturer of the 3mm conduit to try and buy 5m from them but decided to do some further checks first,the 3mm is the reference value,it's actually 5mm OD.
Could be too fat for tpe fingers but I may try for a sample from them regards my fabric doll build.
ATB
Matt
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  #15  
Old 17-11-2018, 01:00 AM
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Muninn thanks again for this thread which make me think daily.
This is a bit of a mad idea I have now got, and no way of doing it yet until the next time I cut open Gingers hands.

Right where to start.. hold your right hand in front of you with your thumb facing your face, fingers pointing up, bend your fingers forward and then straighten, now bend them backwards to any point, the further the better, actually it is impossible without breaking your fingers so why can dolls fingers do it, and why do they need to, they don't.

Don't mount the wires in the palm plate but fix them to the front of the plate with two straps like wire retainers, so the wires only bend in one direction, forward.

dead quick sketch of what i am getting at, the right hand, I have not worked out what to do with the thumb but that idea is base on wires bending forward only.

and yes it drawing is rubbish but I did it while I was typing this.

Tommo

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Last edited by Tommo10; 17-11-2018 at 03:54 AM.
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  #16  
Old 05-12-2018, 02:26 AM
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Sorry, I've been a little busy with other things recently. Hopefully I've got a bit more time to experiment for the next day or two.

Tommo - that's not a bad solution actually, provided you could get something sufficiently strong to strap the wires, yet also soft enough so it doesn't become another stress point. However this is a similar principle to how some of the older/pre-palm plate dolls kinda worked - they were attached further up the wrist I think. But worth some thought as a "Plan E", or whatever letter I've got to now

Well, Postman Pat has visited me with something other than bills - I ordered some tiny universal joints some time ago, and they look rather similar to what I was hoping. Not a big deal if this doesn't work, they barely cost me a fiver for 5 of them. The internal bores are 3mm and 4mm (for some reason they're cheaper than the 3/3mm ones), and the external diameter is 7mm so not too bulky. Here's a bit of a mock up photo showing what I want to do:



The basic idea is to attach the finger wires to the joint as normal, then connect the joint to the palm plate by means of another short wire that inserts into the plate and fixed with whatever works - after I've clean all the old cr@p out first of course. The joint will sit tight up against the plate so that the small wire doesn't move, all the finger motion will be courtesy of the joint.

Now, of course you'll realise that there will be a bit too much movement in all four directions when all that's needed is "down", and perhaps a little bit of "left" and "right" (perhaps also a small amount of "up". This I reckon I can solve by slightly modifying the joints to both limit the motion, and to stiffen then up a little.

Watch this space, I'll need to experiment. Or at least as much as can given I wrecked one of my own fingers the other day!
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  #17  
Old 05-12-2018, 05:09 AM
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Hi Muminn

I'm expecting to do a little experimentation myself after Christmas.

Can you do me a favour and PM me the width and thickness of the palm plate as I intend doing a spot of 3D finger modelling.

Plan 'F' is to print a sleeve that slides around the plate.

Cheers
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