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Old 25-04-2019, 06:38 PM
synfemlover synfemlover is offline
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Default Broken Upper Back On 4Woods

I have a second-hand 4Woods Sarina and, unfortunately, the tee section between the shoulders is broken, as outlined in:

https://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopi...f=163&t=115078

Does anyone have any suggestions for repairing her? Swapping out the tee will be a messy job, as it might mean having to go in from both the front and the back in order to loosen the nut and bolt assemblies. I'm hoping for a simpler solution.

After thinking about it for a bit, and I might be able to brace the piece using stiff wire (such as from a coat hanger) and metal hose clamps. The advantage is that it would likely require only one incision from the back. Also, it's a relatively simple matter and I can use materials that are readily available or can be easily obtained from, say, a home improvement store.

On the other hand, should it be necessary to change out the tee, I've contacted 4Woods and I could get a replacement piece. However, from what I gathered, the piece is a standard plumbing or electrical conduit tee or cross with some modifications and I could do that myself with a saw and a round file.

I'm sure that there's a feasible solution.

Thank you.
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Old 25-04-2019, 08:20 PM
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algaeholics algaeholics is offline
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Replace with PVC pipes/joints...?
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Old 25-04-2019, 08:21 PM
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OK, heres how I would go about it.

You go in from the TOP. Cut the neck and shoulders along the seam lines with a sharp knife and a single deep steady cut from the top of the neck to just before the shoulder starts to roll over on to the arm, this will give you a simple and clean way to close up after.

Once you have the silicone and any foam cut you'll be removing bolts in the order shown



This should then let you remove the "T" piece and neck.

Replace the piece (up to you to figure that bit out)

Reassemble in the reverse order ensuring you set the shoulder joint tensions.

Glue any foam back together using either Super Glue, or clear all purpose silicone.

Clean all silicone areas with Acetone or Isopropyl Alcohol and allow to dry.

using small amounts of clear all purpose silicone, cover the silicone surfaces to be 'glued' and press then together, remove any surface silicone over spill. Use cling film to hold the silicone together whilst it all cures for 24 hours. The more time and care you take here the better the finished repair will look.

With cuts this big, you may even be better off closing in stages rather than trying to go all in one go.

K
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....and so I said to her, "Yes, they're very impressive, but you'll look bloody daft doing that on a horse!"
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Old 25-04-2019, 08:23 PM
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this is an excellent video demonstrating how to open, repair and close a silicone doll




Linky in case it wont play

K
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....and so I said to her, "Yes, they're very impressive, but you'll look bloody daft doing that on a horse!"
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Old 25-04-2019, 09:56 PM
synfemlover synfemlover is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karrot View Post
OK, heres how I would go about it.

You go in from the TOP. Cut the neck and shoulders along the seam lines with a sharp knife and a single deep steady cut from the top of the neck to just before the shoulder starts to roll over on to the arm, this will give you a simple and clean way to close up after.

Once you have the silicone and any foam cut you'll be removing bolts in the order shown



This should then let you remove the "T" piece and neck.

Replace the piece (up to you to figure that bit out)

Reassemble in the reverse order ensuring you set the shoulder joint tensions.

Glue any foam back together using either Super Glue, or clear all purpose silicone.

Clean all silicone areas with Acetone or Isopropyl Alcohol and allow to dry.

using small amounts of clear all purpose silicone, cover the silicone surfaces to be 'glued' and press then together, remove any surface silicone over spill. Use cling film to hold the silicone together whilst it all cures for 24 hours. The more time and care you take here the better the finished repair will look.

With cuts this big, you may even be better off closing in stages rather than trying to go all in one go.

K
Thanks. I hadn't thought of that, though it's a lot of work and a tricky job.

I already went in through her back just to locate the break. I'll probably have to do it again in order to get some measurements as I think I can buy a stock tee or cross and modify it.

Unfortunately the break is at a rather inconvenient location, so I need to proceed carefully and allow several days for it.
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Old 05-05-2019, 10:27 PM
synfemlover synfemlover is offline
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I opened up her back again this afternoon and it turns out that the damage was much worse than I first thought. Not only did that arm break off, the main body of the piece broke in two as well. My choice is to either close her up and leave well enough alone or open her up even more and actually replace the piece.

From what I've gathered, it's a standard electrical or plumbing PVC fitting--either a cross or a tee that's been modified. I can get a new one easily enough and made the modifications, but it looks like I'll have to peel her apart in order to get at all the screws. I'll have my work cut out for me.
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Old 21-05-2019, 10:56 PM
synfemlover synfemlover is offline
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I have an update on the repairs.

I made a replacement tee and I installed it earlier today. The shoulder and neck joints are now connected to the spine. I'll close her up during the next several days, but that'll be a lot easier than what I've had to do so far.

I hope to post some comments and pictures about that happened in the near future.
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Old 22-05-2019, 09:05 AM
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Good news, looking forward to the operation pictures!
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:14 AM
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siliconefun siliconefun is offline
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Hi synfemlover,

so sad to read about the damages who happened to your 4Woods Sarina.
Karrot already gave you some brilliant instructions on how to proceed the repair job based on that precious skeleton pic and I don't think that I can submit a much better help.
The silicone shell is the easiest part to open when you place a proper cut along the seam line. You really can't make it worse. The hard foam core is rather the big challenge to access the joint assy to remove bolts, nuts & washers. I also assume that the foam sticks on the PVC-tubing and broken parts are hard to remove/replace.

A few years ago I installed a neck bolt adapter on Mia's A.I.NEO im body and I placed a clean cut starting from the neck down the spine (nearly invisible after closing).
While doing this mod I remember how my fingers hurt to spread the foam core while struggling to place and fix the adapter over the aluminum rod just above the PVC tube connector (it's a 22 mm ID, or DN 22, T-connector which they've drilled down the bottom face).



I'm looking forward to seeing more about this huge repair job you're ongoing. Good luck!!

- SF -
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Old 11-06-2019, 06:58 AM
synfemlover synfemlover is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siliconefun View Post
Hi synfemlover,

so sad to read about the damages who happened to your 4Woods Sarina.
Karrot already gave you some brilliant instructions on how to proceed the repair job based on that precious skeleton pic and I don't think that I can submit a much better help.
The silicone shell is the easiest part to open when you place a proper cut along the seam line. You really can't make it worse. The hard foam core is rather the big challenge to access the joint assy to remove bolts, nuts & washers. I also assume that the foam sticks on the PVC-tubing and broken parts are hard to remove/replace.
So you've noticed that as well.

Getting through the foam to reach the screws and nuts was a miserable job because of it.

Quote:
A few years ago I installed a neck bolt adapter on Mia's A.I.NEO im body and I placed a clean cut starting from the neck down the spine (nearly invisible after closing).
While doing this mod I remember how my fingers hurt to spread the foam core while struggling to place and fix the adapter over the aluminum rod just above the PVC tube connector (it's a 22 mm ID, or DN 22, T-connector which they've drilled down the bottom face).

<snip>

- SF -
Unfortunately, the nearby home improvement store didn't have that size, so I bought a 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC tee and modified it accordingly. The ID was a bit smaller and, unfortunately, the arms are about 5 mm shorter. In other words, I had to make do with what I had and did lot of filing to get things to fit.

As for the actual installation, I had to make things up as I went along. What I tried at first didn't quite work out, so I had to undo parts of it and try something else.

I'm sure anybody listening in on what I was doing would have learned quite a few new swear words and, yes, my hands hurt afterward. Another pair of hands would certainly have made things easier as the foam was difficult to keep apart.

It's not a job that I would recommend to anyone.

I've taken some pictures and I plan on posting them sometime soon.
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