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  #21  
Old 08-02-2019, 09:00 PM
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Tommo10 Tommo10 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muninn View Post
Oh, forgot to mention, I'll need to deal with closing the wound at some point, and also deal with the wire pokes and rough appearance of her hands. So will be looking at one of those hot air rework station thingys. Any reasonably priced recommendations are welcome.
I have
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use
https://www.toolstation.com/rustins-...r-500ml/p40443
for melting tpe inserts

Tommo
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  #22  
Old 08-02-2019, 11:09 PM
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Muninn Muninn is offline
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Top show Sir, I'll probably go for something that that hot air gun as I'll come in useful with other tasks.

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Originally Posted by waspie View Post
Great to see some ingenuity, but perhaps the best thing to do would be to contact the lazy manufacturers and tell them to get off their backsides and fix these sorts of things. Also sending them your ideas of fixes ?
How many more are going to spend upwards of 1000+ for things that break after days/weeks ??
Unfortunately we aren't all repair minded and would end up with a bigger mess than the broken digits in the first place
Yep, indeed. I'm pretty sure that people would be more than happy to pay another tenner on a 1500 doll that has decent hands. It wouldn't take much for them with the economies of scale they have.

There's better fixes than mine which could be quite cost effective if done in a factory - the best I've seen has a 3D printed palm plate with thick wires in tubing. This allows full movement of all finger joints.
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  #23  
Old 08-02-2019, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muninn View Post
Top show Sir, I'll probably go for something that that hot air gun as I'll come in useful with other tasks.



Yep, indeed. I'm pretty sure that people would be more than happy to pay another tenner on a 1500 doll that has decent hands. It wouldn't take much for them with the economies of scale they have.

There's better fixes than mine which could be quite cost effective if done in a factory - the best I've seen has a 3D printed palm plate with thick wires in tubing. This allows full movement of all finger joints.
3D printing... We have a man for that....

Cheers for all the hard work and sharing your findings Muninn. I really like the universal joint solution and may attempt something similar with Sophies hands.

Yvettes are holding up well after her op last year. Her wires being bass strings (original WM fittings) are all good and I was able to reattach at the wrist.... Sophies on the other hand (excuse the pun) were a train wreck within days of arrival they are sharp, uncapped wires broken at the wrist and poking through the finger tips. Those one's need complete replacement for which I'm thinkng that I'm going to use your universal joints fix.

All the best,

Shamus.
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  #24  
Old 09-02-2019, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamus View Post
3D printing... We have a man for that....

Cheers for all the hard work and sharing your findings Muninn. I really like the universal joint solution and may attempt something similar with Sophies hands.

Yvettes are holding up well after her op last year. Her wires being bass strings (original WM fittings) are all good and I was able to reattach at the wrist.... Sophies on the other hand (excuse the pun) were a train wreck within days of arrival they are sharp, uncapped wires broken at the wrist and poking through the finger tips. Those one's need complete replacement for which I'm thinkng that I'm going to use your universal joints fix.

All the best,

Shamus.
If you're looking for similar, these are competitively priced and conveniently come in packs of 5: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-Stai...72.m2749.l2649

I think if I was doing it from scratch I wouldn't bother removing the finger wires from the fingers if they aren't too mangled. You should just be able to trim the wires down a little, and add the joints + the wire that gets epoxyed into the plate. Much simpler. I wasn't sure if there'd be too much movement at the joints, but the TPE stiffens the movement up, plus obstructing the joint by pushing the wires all the way through helps also.

**Usual caveats along the lines of this is experimental so at own risk, dunno how long they'll last etc.
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  #25  
Old 09-02-2019, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamus View Post
3D printing... We have a man for that....
Yeah, I suspect you are thinking of me...

MannequinFan is working on a design, so I'll let him experiment with the physical bits, I'll just throw in a few ideas along the way.

I'm watching the thread on TDF: https://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopi...6896&#p1466896

I can't print anything right now as Sarah-Lou and Pelin are busy printing a plethora of phallic... yet functional... 'objects'.
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  #26  
Old 09-06-2019, 05:30 PM
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I didn't realise how long ago it was since I updated this! Goes to show I've been busy elsewhere.

Anyway, it's given time to ensure that my finger modifications do the job. So far, they seem to be doing their job. I've had an issue with the wires poking through the fingers at the ends (I didn't wrap them with anything), and one of the fingers came loose as I didn't tighten it enough at the joint. But luckily as I haven't sealed up the hand yet I can sort these issues out.

On the subject of sealing the hands, I had enough money to buy a heat gun - the one recommended by Tommo above - and have been having a little play with a spare insert. Not confident that I'm getting the temperature settings right, so might plump for the IR temperature gun too as I'm really not sure what temp I'm heating the surface to... Tommo, what settings do you use on the gun (temp, fan setting etc.)? I'm going to try some fixes on inconspicuous and small areas first - perhaps see if I can tidy up the abrasions and tears on her feet, then seal up a small elbow hole.
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  #27  
Old 10-06-2019, 11:33 AM
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Thought I would just mention that copper will work harden and become brittle so if it's used for fingers and they are bent frequently to hold things they will work harden and become harder to bend and eventually fracture, copper can be softened again by annealing but that involves heating to around 400C and quenching in water which is obviously not practical.
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  #28  
Old 10-06-2019, 11:58 AM
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Don't use copper wire, I would rather use a not too hard and thick single steel wire.
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  #29  
Old 10-06-2019, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekki View Post
Thought I would just mention that copper will work harden and become brittle so if it's used for fingers and they are bent frequently to hold things they will work harden and become harder to bend and eventually fracture, copper can be softened again by annealing but that involves heating to around 400C and quenching in water which is obviously not practical.
Quote:
Originally Posted by siliconefun View Post
Don't use copper wire, I would rather use a not too hard and thick single steel wire.
Yeah, I'm thinking of going back to some of the thickish steel wire that I've used before. I'll try and seal the ends with something first so they don't cause pokes. The original copper wire without the thread is just so sharp.

Just need to find a decent gauge wire. The garden tie wire was too flexible, but the fence wire was ridiculously stiff.
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  #30  
Old 10-06-2019, 09:43 PM
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Just a thought, maybe TIG welding rod might be a viable option. Can be got in gauges from 1mm up to 3.2mm in both normal steel or stainless steel. No idea how it will stand up to repeated bending. I'd avoid aluminium. Its brittle and doesn't take to bending well.
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